Coaching Shein: The End of Fast Fashion?

By Sophia Sonkin '27

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Picture this: You’re scrolling through Shein, lured by the promise of trendy, affordable finds. You type “Coach” in the search bar and see rows of handbags, shoes, and accessories, all flaunting that unmistakable “C.” But are these deals too good to be true? According to Coach’s parent company, Tapestry, the answer is a resounding yes.

Shein has become a phenomenon and a lightning rod in today’s digital fashion world. With just a few taps, millions of shoppers find themselves immersed in a sea of endless, affordable trends—many resembling the luxury designs of brands like Coach. (1) But behind the irresistible prices and influencer-fueled “haul” videos lies a controversial business model: Shein stands accused by Coach’s parent company, Tapestry, of selling lookalike products that blur the line between inspiration and imitation, misleading consumers about authenticity. (2)

The Showdown: Tapestry Takes a Stand

In March 2025, Tapestry—the parent company of Coach—filed a federal lawsuit against Shein in the U.S. District Court for the Central District of California, accusing the fast fashion giant of selling products “substantially indistinguishable” from genuine Coach items. The lawsuit alleges that Shein’s online marketplace is flooded with handbags, shoes, and accessories that mimic Coach’s signature logos and branding, often sold by third-party vendors with little to no disclosure that these items are not authentic Coach products. In some instances, counterfeit Coach bags were even marketed as “100% authentic,” despite no verification from Coach itself. (3)

Tapestry contends that Shein’s website is intentionally designed to blur the line between authentic and counterfeit goods, making it nearly impossible for shoppers to discern the origin of the products they’re purchasing. The complaint highlights that seller information is often inconspicuous, leading consumers to reasonably believe they are buying directly from Shein or authorized Coach partners. (4)

Coach is hardly the first to challenge Shein’s decentralized approach. For example, brands like Ralph Lauren and Levi Strauss have also taken legal action against Shein for similar alleged intellectual property violations. (5) This decentralized model—where Shein acts as both marketplace operator and logistical backbone—allows the company to expand rapidly while deflecting direct responsibility for counterfeit or infringing products. Plaintiffs in other lawsuits have argued that Shein’s complex, multi-entity structure is deliberately designed to obscure accountability and complicate legal recourse. (6)

Shein’s meteoric rise is powered by a data-driven model that tracks user searches, browsing habits, and social media trends to churn out new styles at a staggering pace, sometimes launching thousands of items daily. This on-demand model, paired with a sprawling, decentralized supply chain and a vast network of micro-influencers, keeps Shein hyper-relevant and nearly untouchable, even as it faces mounting criticism for labor violations, environmental harm, and a growing list of intellectual property disputes. (7)

Shein’s Response

Shein insists it is committed to protecting intellectual property rights. The company maintains that all products flagged in the lawsuit are "certified authentic" by sellers and that it enforces strict anti-counterfeit policies using advanced technology and swift action against violators. However, the lawsuit highlights that Shein’s platform does not clearly disclose when items are from third-party sellers, leaving consumers in the dark. (8)

This lack of transparency has been a significant sticking point in Tapestry’s complaint, which argues that the platform’s structure itself facilitates the sale of counterfeit goods. Shein’s business model, relying on a vast network of third-party sellers, makes it challenging to control and verify the authenticity of every product listed on its site. (9)

Not All Press Is Good Press: The Fast Fashion Reckoning

The Coach vs. Shein lawsuit is only the most recent and high-profile example in a broader legal pushback against fast fashion platforms accused of intellectual property theft and counterfeiting. In the past year, global retailer Uniqlo brought suit against Shein in Tokyo, alleging that Shein’s “Round Mini Shoulder Bag” was a direct imitation of Uniqlo’s viral bestseller, potentially eroding customer trust and brand reputation. (10) British footwear brand Dr. Martens also filed a complaint in U.S. federal court, asserting that Shein repeatedly infringed on its iconic boot designs-even after a previous settlement-by continuing to sell products with trade dress and trademark elements unique to Dr. Martens. (11)

Legal action is not limited to established brands. In a significant development, a group of independent designers in the U.S. has been allowed to proceed with federal racketeering (RICO) claims against Shein, arguing that the company’s intricate corporate structure and algorithm-driven design process systematically enable large-scale copyright infringement and make accountability difficult. This approach reflects a shift in legal strategy: rather than targeting individual counterfeiters, plaintiffs are increasingly seeking to hold platforms like Shein directly responsible for the sale and promotion of infringing goods. (12)

Consumer frustration has amplified this legal scrutiny. Social media and online forums are filled with accounts from shoppers who report being misled by ambiguous seller disclosures and receiving products that do not meet expectations, echoing the concerns raised in the Tapestry complaint against Shein. Many consumers express uncertainty about whether they are buying directly from Shein or from third-party vendors, highlighting the transparency issues at the heart of these lawsuits. (13)

Leading intellectual property attorney David Rabinowitz notes that Tapestry’s approach—seeking to hold Shein directly liable rather than focusing on third-party sellers—reflects a broader industry push for platforms to take greater responsibility for what is sold under their banner. “If Coach prevails, it could force Shein and similar platforms to overhaul their marketplace models, increase transparency, and slow the relentless churn of fast fashion,” Rabinowitz says. (14)

What’s Next?

Is this the end of fast fashion’s free ride? The jury is still out—literally. The outcome of these lawsuits will shape the future of online shopping, brand integrity, and consumer trust. One thing is clear: the battle for brand authenticity is heating up, and the results could redefine what ends up in your cart next season.

This case could serve as a wake-up call for both consumers and companies. For consumers, it is a reminder to be more vigilant about where and how they shop. For companies, it highlights the importance of maintaining the integrity of their brand and the need for transparent business practices.

Endnotes

1. Chad de Guzman, “Shein’s Fast Fashion Empire Is Built on Dressed-Up Duplicity,” TIME, February 8, 2023, https://time.com/6247732/shein-climate-change-labor-fashion/.

2. “Coach Alleges Shein Deceived Consumers With Counterfeit Goods,” The Fashion Law, March 20, 2025, https://www.thefashionlaw.com/coach-claims-shein-is-deceiving-consumers-with-counterfeit-products/.

3. “Coach owner sues Shein over alleged sale of dupes,” Fashion Dive, March 18, 2025, https://www.fashiondive.com/news/tapestry-coach-sues-shein-dupes/742804/.

4. Tapestry, Inc., Coach Services, Inc., and Coach IP Holdings LLC v. Zoetop Business Co., Limited, and Shein US Services, LLC, No. 2:25-cv-02224 (C.D. Cal. Mar. 13, 2025), Complaint, DocumentCloud, https://www.documentcloud.org/documents/25590035-coach-shein-lawsuit/.

5. “Levi’s Filed a Lawsuit against Shein, a Chinese Clothing Company, for Trademark Infringement,” China Docket, November 22, 2018.

6. “From Dr Martens to Ralph Lauren, Lawsuits Are Starting to Build for Shein,” The Fashion Law, June 15, 2021.

7. “Shein accused of selling counterfeit versions of Coach products,” Global Legal Post, March 26, 2025, https://www.globallegalpost.com/news/shein-accused-of-selling-counterfeit-versions-of-coach-products-265886391.

8. “Levi’s Filed a Lawsuit against Shein, a Chinese Clothing Company, for Trademark Infringement,” China Docket, November 22, 2018.

9. “Coach owner sues Shein over alleged sale of dupes,” Fashion Dive, March 18, 2025, https://www.fashiondive.com/news/tapestry-coach-sues-shein-dupes/742804/.

10. “Uniqlo sues Shein over alleged copy of its popular 'Mary Poppins bag',” Associated Press, January 18, 2024, https://apnews.com/article/uniqlo-shein-copies-bag-japan-retail-55b3e15ed15786d411c6ee36b926a7d7.

11. “From Dr Martens to Ralph Lauren, Lawsuits Are Starting to Build for Shein,” The Fashion Law, June 15, 2021.

12. “Shein Hit With RICO, Copyright Infringement Lawsuit,” Fashion Dive, July 13, 2023, https://www.fashiondive.com/news/shein-rico-copyright-infringement-lawsuit/732787/.

13. “Coach owner sues Shein over alleged sale of dupes,” Fashion Dive, March 18, 2025, https://www.fashiondive.com/news/tapestry-coach-sues-shein-dupes/742804/.

14. “6 Things to Know About Shein’s Fast Fashion Feuds,” Law360, https://www.law360.com/articles/2300732/6-things-to-know-about-shein-s-fast-fashion-feuds.